The Saatsori Jewellery Industry, the corporate entity in Nagaon offering various kinds of jewellery products, was established in Nagaon, Lakhinagar Chariali in 2010 by Parasha Bora and others. 16 th March is the foundation day of the Saatsori Jewellery Industry.The citizens in Nagaon were its primary target market. Its headquarter is in Nagaon, the largest district in Assam in present scenario. The saatsori Jewellery Industry has also the different branches in differents parts of Assam.The Saatsori Jewellery Industry has opened a new branch at Assam Khadi & Village Industries Board, Chandmari, Guwahati on 2nd Oct. 2013. This was inagurated by Sri Tarun Gogoi, the cheif Minister of Assam."Explore and enhance the quality of life of people through various fashionable designs by providing jewellery products and services of aspired attributes with competitive life style and by rendering resources for traditional development."
GOLDEN HERITAGE OF ASSAMESE JEWELLERY
Gold washing and manufacturing of jewellery were two important ancient industries in Assam & gold dust was abundantly found in the sands of different rivers of the state. References to gold in Assam in the early period are found in the writings of the classical writers and the earliest reference is found in the ARTHASATRA. During the rule of the Ahom Kings, gold washing was done on an elaborate scale and the state derived considerable income from the yearly tax levied on gold washing.
An idea of thw variety and execellence of the ancient Jeweller's skill may be derived from a perusal of the list of presents to king Harshavardhana from king Bhaskarvarmana of the Kamrup as described by the court poet Bana. Bana mentioned the exquisite ornamented "ABHOGA" umbrella and Jewelled ribs: ornaments which crimsoned the heavenly spaces with the light of the finest gems: Shining crest Jewels: pearl necklaces which seemed the source of the milk ocean's whiteness: quantities of pearls, sheels, sapphires and other drinking vesseld by skilful artist, cages of coral and rings of ivory , encrusted with rows of huge pearls fromt the bows of elephants.
A large quantity of gold was used in making ornaments. F.C. Hanniker in his monograph on gold and silver wares of Assam writes: "Assam Jewellery is by no means without merit. It incurs the stock reproach of being unfinished, it is no doubt crude and precious stones used are not very precious or very well cut. But it is quaint and characteristic. The gold used is of a hight degree of purity. The Assamese goldsmith's customers would not be satisfied with 14 carat or even 18 carat gold and many of the bracelets, necklaces etc., are distinctly pleasing even to the critical eye and would attract in the midst of quite a good collection of Indian wares" . According to F.C. Hanuiker, there were a considerable number of goldsmiths and dealers in the district of Kamrup, Goalpara and Sibsagar In the district of Kamrup, Barpeta was the wellknown center of the trade. In the whole province, Jorhat was alone proud of enamelling works, known as 'Mina Kara' in Assamese.
Enamelling on gold was done mainly at Jorhat. The artificers were SUNARS and possessed a fair amount of skill. There were manay SUNARS in Jorhat who worked on gold only. The Enamel was of three kinds, a dark blue, dark green and white but red and yellow were sometimes used. Another important place wher e gold and silver work was done carried on extensively was Barpeta. It is learnt that during the reign of the Ahom Kings, the work done by the local goldsmiths from Banaras for manufacture of better quality of gold silver ornaments.
The ornaments worn by men and women on different parts of their bodies were different designs. The Kalika Purana names forty different types which were made of both gold and silver. The different metals and other materials used for the making of ornaments were gold, silver, copper, brass, bronze, amber, rhionoceros's horns , ivory etc. Different kinds of valuable jewels and stones were also used as ornamnets. The ornaments of gold, silver, amber, ivory were precious and beautiful to look at by setting precious stiones and jewels on them.
Both Assamese men and women used to wear ornaments. The male pit on ornamnets on their neck, hands, fingers and ears. The kings and officials of the highest cadre used to put on ornamants on the toes of the feet as well as on the ankle-joints. The male put on bracelets made of gold or silver on the wrists of thier hands knownas Gam-Kharu. Most of the neck ornaments (Hara) were made of Beads. The necklace with bigger beads called MATAMANI a large bead of the shape of Rudraksa, or a drum shaped ornamnts called MAdal or Biri were put on by males. On their ears, they put on different varieties of ear-rings such as LOKAPARA and LONGKERU. On teh arms, ornaments called BAJU or KANKAN were put on. Thy put on rings made of gold or silver and of various shapes and designs. On the ankle joints of the feet, an ornamnet called NUPUR was used. It has small balls inside which produce a tinkling sound. The rings put on the toes of the feet are called UJANTI. The Nobles and the high officials SIROPES or feathers of birds, in order to make it more beautiful.
The ornamenst put on by the women were moreor less of similar kind. Women also put on ornaments on the nose and on the head. The ornament put ont he nose by women is called NAKPHUL.
Some ornaments used in the mediavel period are still in use. The ornaments are made of various shapes and designs. The names applied to the ornaments are mostly descriptive and they themselves indicate the shape and decorative work to the ornamnets in most cases. Some names are given according to the design of the ornaments, some are given according to the design of the ornaments and some again according to the metal of the ornamnet with which it is made of. For example JONBIRI means an ornament made in the shape of the cresent moon.
ORNAMENTS USED AS NECKLACE: Konbiri Dhol Biri, Silikhs Madali, Gejera, Bana, Dokmala, Kathal Kuhia madali, Digdugi, Sonar Har, Dhari, Biri were put on both by males and women except Japhar madali and Gajera which were worn by women only. The ornaments such as, Galakantha, Chandra Har, Rupadhar, Galpata, Pechhandar, Kautha Sobha, Gajamati Har were put on as necklace by women only.
EAR - ORNAMENTS : Among the diffenrnt ear ornaments mention can be made of Lokapara, Lang Keru, Thuria, Dighal Keru, Bakharna Keru, UKA Keru, Titakaria Keru, Jangphai Keru, Kanthasa, Kanaphul.
RINGS : Rings are called Angathi in Assamese. The rings of various designs were Jethineguri Angathi, Patia Angathi, Babri Phulia Angathi etc.
BRACELETS : Gam Kharus were used by the males only. there were other bracelets such as Epatiabala, Dopatia Bala, Muthi, Satijuri Muthi, Sonkhatowa Kharu, RUpar Kharu, Eptia Magar Khatowa bala, Uka Kharu, Chheo etc. On the arms of their both men and women were ornament (tilaka or lalatika) which was also known as citipoti was generally worn by women just below the parting of the hair on top of the forhead.
ROYAL ORNAMENTS OF THE AHOM KINGS: The Ahom kings had many valuable ornaments used by the kings were kept in the royal store house. The ornaments used by the kings were the nine jewels set on gold plate, the pearl, the diamond, different kinds necklaces known as Pachari, Satsari, Navsari, Chandrahar, and Gazera etc. Other ornaments used by the kings were different kinds of ear rings such as Karnabhusan, Karnabala, Makara Kundala, Hangsakundal, Kundal and Lokapara: diffenent kinds of armlets called Baju; different kinds of bracelets; head dresses such as Siropes, Kalki, diadems called Kiriti Mukut etc.